Soul TravellingThe very mention of Goa immediately brings to mind quiet streets lined with colourful Portuguese villas, faint music emanating from shadowed corners, the flamboyance of the hippies, sun-kissed beaches, and of course, the state’s sumptuous legacy of wining and dining. Its eclectic cuisine is incomplete without its fondness for liquor, with beer and feni being the choice of accompaniment with many of the famed dishes. The laid-back bars in Goa, the iconic taverns and watering-holes tucked away in the forgotten lanes of a vaddo are evergreen, singing tales of memories, companionship, and susegad.
In the words of Nandan Kudchadkar, founder of Goa’s — and perhaps the country’s — first museum dedicated to alcohol, “If these glasses could speak, the history of Goa could be told.” The cultural heritage of India’s beloved beach destination is intricately woven into its famous taverns — little pockets of nostalgia that offer a glimpse into Goa’s drinking past. No matter the season, the taverns and bars in Goa never fall short of customers. Back in the day, they were a favourite among tired workers stopping by for a shot of feni. Or a local haunt where people gathered to watch the daily news, catch up on the village’s goings-on, or have a quiet drink. In their simplicity and ubiquitousness, Goa’s taverns became a small pleasure, a break at the end of a long day.
Cut to the present, and Goa has transformed into a sea of fusion eateries and busy, neon-lit bars. However, one just needs to step away from the buzz and explore the old-school taverns that could give the glitziest bars in Goa a run for their money. Let’s take a walk through some of its most iconic vintage taverns.
The Best Taverns and Bars in Goa
Best Bars in North Goa
Joseph Bar, Panjim
A cosy nook in the heart of Panjim’s Fontainhas neighbourhood, Joseph prides itself on being a ‘feni bar’. At any time of the day, you’re sure to encounter a merry crowd here — from young couples to yoga gurus — all of whom are busy polishing off egg chops, prawn rissois, and sliders with local gins or a craft beer. But even the most discerning alcohol connoisseur can be expected to finish the night with a Joseph classic — a feni with Limca, salt, and a dash of lime.
Cagy Bar, Arpora
Counted among the oldest bars in Arpora, Cagy Bar continues to be a beloved of tourists and locals, since its very inception in 1970. Its vivid and inviting interiors, fun cocktails, and lip-smacking dishes ensure that it appears on any list of the best bars in north Goa. Along with the wide selection of drinks, one also has the choice of making their own drinks at the bar! For owners Eligio Fernandas and his sister, this is a way of keeping the core of Goa alive, one that’s ever warm and welcoming.
Guru Bar, Anjuna
Another much-loved name among legendary bars in Goa, Anjuna’s Guru Bar has been a founding member of the state’s hippie movement of the ‘60s. Whether you want an expansive view of the sea or to jam with rock artists in the graffitied performance area, Guru Bar has you covered. Its decadent and irreverent charm conjures up the style of an icon, with the refreshing drinks keeping the groove on!
Happy Bar, Assagao
Sprawled at the side of a busy four-way cross-junction, Happy Bar is indeed a quaint reflection of the Goan pursuit of happiness. The balcao of the 100-year property acts as the seating area while a general store selling all kinds of chips, biscuits, and daily household needs offers basic chakhna to customers. If you ever ask for a ‘proper snack’, expect to be offered Maggi or boiled eggs! But don’t be disappointed by the lack of a menu. Assagao’s local favourite is among the must-visit bars in Goa for anyone looking to step away from the madding crowd.
Best Bars in South Goa
Marques Bar, Loutolim
Despite being one of the oldest and most well-known bars in South Goa, Marques Bar has retained its age-old, local flavour. Well-stocked and reasonable, its drinks menu proudly offers all Goan brands of liquor, including some of the finest aged spirits. Its owner, Mr. Januario Marques is a jovial man, happy to regale his customers with trivia and tales as they snack on authentic Goan ‘chakhna’ with their drinks. If you’re ever there, be sure to halt for a brew of urrak or dukshiri, a unique variety of feni.
Domnic Bar
Established in the year 1955, Domnic Bar is also touted to be one of the oldest bars in South Goa — an iconic tavern predating the arrival of the hippies. Over the years, it has become a favourite among travellers looking for an authentic Goan experience. However, the locals of the village are still the most frequent visitors, often found catching up after work or enjoying their mid-day ‘kop’. Run by Fatima Fernandes and her brother, Domnic was earlier helmed by their mother who didn’t believe in mixers or seating arrangements, for that matter. People simply stopped by, gulped their favourite tipple in a shot, and went about their work.
Parting thoughts
Each of the myriad taverns and bars in Goa has a story to tell. Today, taverns are fast becoming a relic of the bygone days, losing out to modern pubs, strict government regulations, and a lack of interest among the youth. However, some locals and tourism ventures are trying to keep tradition alive through walking tours where participants get to experience indigenous liquors and interact with tavern owners. Be it with a Presley classic or a game of carom, at these taverns, people find a reason to celebrate a way of life that once was. Amidst the chaos of hyper development, there is growing hope for Goa’s iconic taverns to be preserved and cherished — long after the last drop of feni has been had.
