Fontainhas – where the city finds its soul

The city of Panjim is unique in many ways, being the only Goan city on the banks of the Mandovi River with proximity to Miramar Beach, where the river eases into the Arabian Sea. On the northeast, the city is flanked by Altinho, the hillside residence of governance to the state. And yet, while each of these precincts holds interest in its own right, it is the colorful lanes of Fontainhas at the foothills of the city that charm locals and captivate visitors.

On a crisp January morning, when the weather was at its best in Goa and the festivity of the New Year filled the air, the Soul Tavelling Latin Quarter Walk in Fontainhas Goa is what we chose to explore this oft-passed neighborhood. Fontainhas the Portuguese colony in Goa, pronounced fon-tie-nesh, means the little fountain in Portuguese, named after a spring that was discovered in the eighteenth century. For someone who was raised in a metropolitan, the neighbourhood is a refreshing break from towering structures, as the construction across Fontainhas contains predominantly one or two-storey tiled roof residences and establishments.

Christened the Latin Quarters of Goa also known as the Portuguese colony in Goa, a walk through its winding streets, is best commenced at the junction of two very important buildings of the old city of Panjim. While it is possible to walk along the lanes and alleys and discover cute nooks where you can nibble on authentic Goan snacks like rissois, croquetts and wash it down with a beverage or quick coppa, one would be amiss to not seek guidance to make the most of the exploration. Sure it would be great to take some photos of the beautiful Indo-Portuguese houses, but what if you could get a chance to actually hear the tales those streets could tell?

Hearing about how the neighbourhood was established as a place of residence in proximity to the primary business district while standing in the middle of Tobacco  Square, I could appreciate how this would have been prime real estate even centuries ago. Anecdotes of the life that came to be in the capital city while under Portuguese governance are in plenty for those who are willing to lend an ear to the ambassador on the trail. So what about this quaint corner of the city brought it to many a must-see list of  Goa?

It holds the warmth of a well-lived home, where its dents and crevices stand witness to the culture nestled in nostalgia. History buffs will find joy in learning about the old mint and the statue that stands before it, trivia lovers will devour the juicy morsels of did you know on the post office, and the faithful will find a new appreciation for the little chapel,  that marks the entrance to the famed quarters of the capital. And this was just the beginning.

The aroma of freshly baked pastry beckoned us into a walkway, where we were introduced to one of the oldest bakeries in Fontainhas Goa. Goan staples from bolinhas-coconut cookies, doce- a gram flour and coconut sweet, bebinca- the famed layered cake, croquettes- meat or vegetable crumbed finger food, chorice rolls- Goan pork sausage filled dinner rolls and forminhas canapes, lined the shelves. Thankfully I did not have to go through decision fatigue on what to eat, as a curated snack plate was presented to me and other guests on account of the walk.

Replenished and with a deeper insight into the confluence of culture in terms of cuisine in Goa, it was time to finally enter one of the much-admired homes on the streets of Fontainhas Goa. The residents of the vivenda- villa, included well-travelled individuals and artifacts that had been passed down generations. With origins in Macao, Mozambique, and Portugal, it was as if the charm of the home had brought character into the adjacent streets. And possibly that’s what the reality of Fontainhas the Portuguese colony in Goa is, the spirit that is embodied across the entire quarter.

A true testament of having more than meets the eye, and finding treasures in little details,  is possibly what would summarise this experience as a whole. The beauty is, that you do not have to be a Goan or a visitor to appreciate this experience, all you need is your soul.