Sharvani ChandvaleGoa, synonymous with sun-kissed beaches and vibrant nightlife, has a lesser-known side that holds many untold stories in its embrace. Amongst these sits the history of the Curdi village in South Goa – a land steeped in mystery that emerges from its watery veil only once a year. Also known as the Atlantis of Goa, Curdi’s story is one worth telling and remembering. To make sure no one forgets it, Soul Travelling planned an adventure through its quiet lanes and broken homes.
This blog guides curious offbeat travellers in Goa through Curdi village’s history and underappreciated beauty.
A Brief Peek into Curdi Village’s History
Nestled in the heart of South Goa, Curdi village was once a bustling settlement, resonating with the daily lives of its inhabitants. However, in the 1980s, the Salaulim Dam’s reservoir submerged 20 villages underwater. Amongst these, the village of Curdi dries up during the summer months of April and May to tell its tale. Today, it is a living testament to the resilience of human memory and culture.
When the Salaulim Dam was proposed, the goal was to provide water to South Goa. However, this meant that Curdi would sink under the water that overflowed. The villagers were given land to settle elsewhere and ironically, it is believed that they continue to have water problems. However, for the nation’s greater good, the villagers gave up their homes for the greater good of the state.
What Curdi Village looks like today
When travelling to Curdi, you’ll see hints of Goan and Portuguese influences in the architecture. It’s a long way through villages and forests and you know you’ve reached when you stop by a dilapidated Portuguese police station. It makes you wonder about their lives and that of the people who called this place their home. Once you walk ahead, you find yourself looking at the village – a rolling stretch right beside the Salalulim reservoir. There is some water here and there but you can see the cracked earth under your feet, waiting for the rains to bring it back to life.
It’s an exciting phenomenon that Curdi village of Goa reemerges annually during summer. The blazing hot sun brings down the water levels to expose the land. As you enter the village, its emptiness sends chills down your spine. You’ll see a broken-down administration building, a tulsi Vrindavan kept outside of homes, a chapel, a temple, a desolate community centre, remnants of homes made in locally packed mud, wells and cracked soil.
Ajay Kurdikar, a local of Curdi talks about its architectural heritage in an interview with Sanjeev Sardesai.
“Curdi has a strong lineage of artists. There was a theatre for performances and the Curdi village is home to many eminent personalities. Padmavibhusan awardee Mogubai Kurdikar and her daughter Kishoreetai Amonkar are the most renowned of them.”
What may seem like ‘just another village’ to the officials, was in fact a home to some renowned artists.
Rituals in Curdi since its submergence
The Kurdikars lost their land but it continues to live in their stories, prayers and cuisine. Every year, they revisit their ancestral village to perform rituals. And you’ll be pleasantly surprised to see that they belong to many faiths. While one community prays to Lord Someshwar, another meets for a feast in a tiny chapel. This annual gathering transforms the Curdi village into a site of cultural reunion to share stories and rekindle memories.
To safeguard it from damage, the locals moved the chapel in Curdi to a higher altitude. Dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus, it comes alive during the Feast of the Cross, celebrated in the first week of May. During these reunions, the villagers will fondly share stories of their land safely guarded in their memories.
Ruins of certain temples continue to exist and some others were moved by the villagers to other locations. A small area was demarcated as a Ganesh Temple when a local discovered a granite idol of Lord Ganesha. The idol sits on the ground with stones marking the temple area around it.
“It’s interesting to know that not even the village elders knew about this temple!”, says Sanjeev Sardesai in a video interview with Prudent. The religious edifices in Curdi are symbolic of the village’s communal harmony and diversity.
How to Reach Curdi Village in Goa?
Reaching Curdi village is an adventure in itself. Located about 100 km from the state capital Panaji, the journey to Curdi Village can be a day-long excursion. Travellers can hire taxis or drive down via the NH 66, turning towards the Uguem-Panayal route to reach this elusive village. The last leg of the journey might require a bit of trekking, making it all the more exciting for adventure enthusiasts. It’s important to plan this trip during the summer months, typically from late April to early June, to witness the village’s full glory.
An Itinerary Must: Goa Travel and Curdi
For anyone drafting a Goa travel itinerary, Curdi is a must-visit for those who seek more than the usual beachside relaxation and party scene. This village offers a poignant contrast to the usual tourist spots in Goa. Walking among the ruins, you are traversing through history, touching the very stones and walls that have withstood the test of time and nature.
Conclusion: A Hidden Gem in Goa’s Crown
If you are a fan of history or looking for things to do in Goa, consider driving up to Curdi in April or May. The village is a testament to Goa’s diverse and rich heritage, offering a unique experience far removed from the typical tourist trail. It is not just a location in Goa, but a fond and sacred memory to its former residents. It’s a home they gave up for the greater good of their state, Goa.
That said, certain tourists and locals who visit this village in the summer continue to treat this place with disrespect. You will find find litter everywhere including alcohol bottles strewn over important landmarks. If you are planning to visit Curdi village in Goa, be mindful of the location’s sanctity and the value it holds for its residents.
If you’d like to explore Curdi with Soul Travelling. Reach out to us on +919529490245
