Rajat RaneGoa: A Land of Suprises
We all know that Goa is a land of wonder but do you know what adds to this wonder – A unique festival of Goa, the Bonderam festival that is celebrated on one of the most scenic and picturesque islands of our state– Divar. A festival that celebrates historical rivalries by planting flags to demarcate territories.
Goa might be one of the smallest states of the country, but what it lacks in size, it more than makes up with its rich heritage, diversity, cuisine, nature and of course it’s cosmopolitan culture. Long (and still unfortunately) known as the land of cheap alcohol, parties, and beaches, it has within itself a plethora of practices and traditions that speak of a past filled with stories, rituals and sometimes happy accidents.
Goa is also home to some of the most unique, colorful and varied celebrations and festivals in India. While these festivities occur year-long in different parts of the state there are some which are celebrated in the monsoons. Before you retort, let me tell you that monsoons ( June – Mid-September) are one of the best times to visit the state. The lush greens all around, the gently swirling paddy crops in the fields, the mist which plays peek-a-boo, tantalizing onlookers with a glimpse of the mighty western ghats- locally known as the Sahyadris- are a sight to behold.
Bonding Through The Festival of Bonderam
Humans are social animals and are meant to live in societies and colonies. Our ancestors lived in close-knit communities forging strong bonds that helped during adversities. We have always been together as families and to celebrate this togetherness we occasionally celebrate these bonds and relations through festivals. At least that’s my way of thinking. One such festival that is celebrated in Goa is the Bonderam. The word “Bonderam” is derived from the Portuguese word “Bandeira” meaning “flag”.The place that is host to this unique celebration is the island of Divar which also happens to be Goa’s only true riverine island.
Origins of the Festival
While all Goan festivals celebrate the coming together of families, and have happy stories of its origin, Bonderam stands out. The celebration of this festival of Goa has a unique history behind it dating back to the Portuguese era. It takes place on Divar Island on the fourth Saturday of August. It is believed that the people from Goa Velha (Old Goa) fled from their homes during the plague in the late 17th century and sought shelter on the tiny river island of Divar. The village initially had three communities: – Goathias, Sao Matias, and Piedade. The people from these communities had frequent quarrels over the land and the property. In order to solve these land demarcation issues the Portuguese introduced a flag system. The rival community sometimes knocked down the flags that separated the land. During the Bonderam celebrations, the locals knock down each other’s flags in memory of their ancestors’ past traditions. Now, the festival is celebrated in mock remembrance of the past tiffs between the locals and the Portuguese. A village affair that started as a commemoration of old tussles between the gavnkars has grown into a celebration of parading floats, flags, fancy dress, and other attractions.
Bandiera: a Tradition
Come August and one can see Divar come alive with buzzing activity. Bands of island youth preparing for the festival by practicing for the dances. Working-age youth come together to decorate elaborate floats and parades that will be traveling through the village.
The island of Divar is made of 2 villages each having their own unique celebration of the festival. The competition for one-upmanship between the two can be really fierce. Youth from each village try to plant their village flag in “rival” villages and knock down the flags of the other villagers which often lead to fights and altercations. But these fights often lasted for a day and it seemingly goes back to normal the next day.
The flags which were planted were knocked down by using a toy bamboo weapon called “Fotash” and used berries or peppercorns as missiles to knock the opposition’s flag down. The “weapon” was also used to target the village women. The elders remember their younger days as they went around with their friends branding the Fotashes and shooting on the women. They would mainly target below the knees and in a time when jeans were yet to be introduced as a fashion, this left quite a mark. Although this toy has been discontinued because it was the cause of eye injuries, One can still see the bamboo-made weapon during the parades.
Celebrating the spirit of revelry, locals and other festival attendees dress up in colorful costumes, and young children taking part in fancy dress competitions. The elaborately decorated floats are accompanied by live band performances which see the participation of not only the young and the middle-aged but also the seemingly looking “elders’ of the island. Floats, parades, dances, fotashes and people all light up the festival of Bonderam on the picturesque island of Divar. The villagers also indulge themselves in local delicacies like sannas, sorpotel, pulao and an assortment of local sweets like Dosh, Bebeinca and dodol.
A land of celebrations
Just like the rest of the state the island of divar in monsoon turns into a place celebrating tradition, festivities, and sometimes also rivalries. Goa and its festivals reflect diversity and unity in its celebrations. Much like the rest of the country, this land of sun, sea and sand also celebrates its uniqueness in much pomp and glory.
