Sharvani ChandvaleGoa’s Islamic heritage is richly influenced by its history, decorated in magnificent architectural souvenirs and gripping stories from the past. It is a melting pot of customs and traditions, not only that of the Portuguese colonists, but of the rulers that came before them. The Kadambas, Bahamani rulers, the Adil Shah dynasty, the Marathas have all left behind a part of them that has integrated itself into the land and its people, going even as far as influencing the dialects of the Konkani language.
Soul Travelling explored Goa’s Islamic heritage through its monuments (and their stories) and this is what we found out:
A quick chronological summary of Goa’s rulers
To begin, long before the Delhi Sultanate was established by Muslims in India, Islam had made its way to Goa through the Arab traders. Later, in the late 14th century, the Bahmani Sultanate defeated the Kadamba dynasty and took over as rulers of a land that is roughly Goa today. The Sultanate broke up by the end of the 15th century when Goa’s rule came into the hands of Adil Shah of Bijapur. This is where Old Goa replaced Chandor as the capital of the Sultanate. Eventually, in 1510, Yusuf Adil Shah was defeated by the Portuguese army under the admiral Afonso de Albuquerque whence in the next few decades Portuguese Inquisition was established.
One of the most regal architectural marvel from the Bijapur Sultanate is the exquisite palace of Adil Shah, which was the Secretariat for a brief period of time. Panaji’s oldest surviving building, the palace was built in the 16th century by Yusuf Adil Shah. What was once the ruler’s summer palace has now become a museum helping Goa conserve its history.
The story of the Surla Tar Mosque and Shigmo
Of all the mosques that were built when the Islamic rulers were in power, only 3 remain. The earliest of these is the mosque at Surla Tar , Ponda which dates back to the Adil Shahi era. It is situated on the banks of the Mandovi river amidst a pristine forest. It had to be restored by the Goa government since most of its original structure had fallen apart over time. Behind the mosque, you’ll find a Pir Saheb (saint) dargah (shrine). It is associated with multiple Hindu deities, including Shri Siddheshwar, for whome a procession sets out during Holi every year as part of the Shigmo celebrations in Goa.
Shigmo is a Hindu spring festival celebrated in March which great show and theatricality, where people dress up and participate in parades with floats and music. Locals there believe that the Pir Saheb came to Goa during the pre-Portuguese era to initiate harmony between Hindus and Muslims. Despite the ongoing religious tension in India, tiny corners like the Surla Tar Mosque in Goa continue to hold on to their rituals.
The story of the Safa Masjid
It’s said that the Surla Tar is similar in structure to the Safa Masjid, a mosque constructed in 1518. The ASI plaque at the site does mention it as 1560 but an inscription on a stone found in Bijapur dates this mosque back to 1518. Historian M. A. Nayeem found a stone inscription that provides testimony to this date.
“The Safa Masjid was constructed on the orders of Asad Khan the Persian Governor of King Ismail Adilshah in the year 1518. Asad Khan was the Adilshahi Governor of Goa and Belgaum.” quotes Dr Prajal Sakhardande in his books Muslim History and Heritage of Goa and Goa Gold Goa Silver Her History Her Heritage from earliest times to 2019.
The word safa means “pure” or “chaste”. The mosque stretches lavishly in a compound paved with laterite in Ponda. It also boasts of a luxurious water body that has dressing chambers where devotees could take a ritualistic bath before entering the mosque. The Safa Masjid is one of the most well-kept structures from the Adil Shahi era.
Namazgarh – a breathtaking gem in Goa
Overlooking Bicholim from a beautiful hill, the Namazgah gives villagers a panoramic view of the town and its neighbouring villages. The mosque, according to historian Prajal Sakhardande is a unique piece of architectural elegance. (TOI) Boasting an open prayer space, it indicates its roots in Persian architecture. Dr Sakhardande, also a member of the Goa Heritage Action Group, states that it is a fine specimen of Turko-Persian architecture in India, a melange of the finest of Mughal and Persian architectural elements.
The best part about the Namazgah is the symbolism it encapsulates. When in the late 17th century, Akbar II declared himself the Mughal Emperor of India, without the knowledge of his father Aurangzeb, all hell broke loose. He was supported by the Mughal and the Rajput armies and yet lost and had to flee. Sambhaji Maharaj came to his rescue, giving him sanctuary in Goa and going as far as constructing the Namazgah in 1683 for him. The alliance they built combined the Mughal, Rajput and Maratha armies which helped stop the Portuguese invasion in Goa. Their victory and the power of an alliance is embodied in the fantastic mosque that sadly is inaccessible to the public.
Final Thoughts on Goa’s Islamic Heritage
The versatility of Goa’s heritage, every culture possessing its own unique identity and yet infusing itself into the idiosyncrasies of the state has our hearts full. Despite many cultures having made a niche for themselves in Goa, the Islamic Heritage, although in minority, is the salt to this melting pot. It stands out and still mingles harmoniously, creating a state that we’re so very proud of. We bask in the beauty of the fabric of Goa and hope its threads stay strong forever.
Want to experience the heritage of Goa? Book a guided tour with Soul Travelling and customise it the way you want it! Check it out here.
